Pick the neat, smallish dried shitake mushrooms—even better, the

ones with floral pattern—at about 1 inch across each. Keep stem whilst

soaking overnight, mix with oil and a little sugar and salt, and then

cut off stem. That way the mushroom stays whole, pretty, and savory.

Most important of all, don' t ever remove lid during cooking. That way

the mushroom stays fragrant, as soft as it is crisp, and savory.

Even memorable.