Pick the neat, smallish dried shitake mushrooms—even better, the
ones with floral pattern—at about 1 inch across each. Keep stem whilst
soaking overnight, mix with oil and a little sugar and salt, and then
cut off stem. That way the mushroom stays whole, pretty, and savory.
Most important of all, don' t ever remove lid during cooking. That way
the mushroom stays fragrant, as soft as it is crisp, and savory.